The little
village of Comares lies at the dividing line where the Malaga Mountains meet the
Axarquía region, in the east of the province. The best way to reach the village,
situated on a natural terrace, is to take the old mountain road, the N 340, from
the city of Malaga up into the Malaga Mountains Nature Park, reached only by a
corkscrew road that winds up the mountainside offering tremendous views. You
will see an enormous pine forest that was planted to prevent flooding in the
city in the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s a joyous area for picnics and
fantastic for panoramic photos. From the visitor centre, a series of walks
spreads out in all directions and there is a good chance you will see deer,
polecats and vultures. There is even a 400-year-old restaurant called Venta Galway (originally set up by an
Irishman) that serves a charming, if rough and ready, mix of stews and steaks,
and it gets very lively on a Sunday! Venta Galway is one of the oldest and most
historical of all the old inns on this road. Turn right onto the Comares road.
At this point the leafy mountains give way to fields, scattered trees and a
large number of farmhouses, many of which nestle in the hillside towards the
bottom of valleys. Soon you will see the village itself hanging on to the
mountainside, but before you reach it you will pass a large number of country
inns dating from the time, not long ago, when this road was one of the
province’s most important thoroughfares. Los Ventorros is located 2 minutes away
from our Villa if driving los Ventorros way we are located on your left at the
sign for Malaga, Masmullar, and Colmenar but not to worry as we do have
directions for you.
Los Ventorros is less than 2 minutes from our villa,
there is a magnificent view of the Mazmúllar Meseta which is located
to the left of our villa and is one of the route map walks that you can
take, a solid rock about two kilometres from the village where the
remains of a ninth century Arab settlement and constructed water
reservoir have been found. Carry on into the village and up to the
natural end of the road at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. This is right on
the top of a hill overlooking the Tajo, with a magnificent view over the
Axarquía. The village of Comares is small but quite charming, with
typically Andalusian narrow streets, whitewashed walls and barred
windows, while the sills in front of them are a mass of plant pots
filled with geraniums. The land around the village is uneven and
mountainous, with two large rocky promontories that are natural
balconies looking over the land, one being the town itself and the other
the Hill of Mazmúllar. The River Cauce, the main source of water, is fed
by streams and brooks and surrounds the whole municipality.
History
The
old Moorish Castillo
The
name Comares comes from the Arabic Qumaris or Hins Comarix and means
"fortress on the hill". The existence of Comares can be traced back to
the Romans. Ruins near Mazmullar, some 2 kilometres out of
the village,
have been dated back to the year 900. Due to its height and
inaccessibility Comares was deemed perfect as a military outpost. The
Castle is one of the three most remarkable in the Axarquía; founded by
the Romans and rebuilt by the Arabs its foundations can still be seen.
Old wells in the area supplied water to the village and in 1931 were
classified as historical monuments. The church Nuestra Señora de
Encarnación, built in the Mudejar style, dates back to the 16th Century.
There has been extensive investment in the village in recent years.
Amongst some of the historical sites, the parochial church and the old
Castle were restored, and walks following the steps of the Moors were
created. There are fantastic views across the rooftops of the village
houses from the ruins of the old Castle.
Surroundings
Comares is a Moorish and typical white village with white painted
tall houses and steep and narrow streets, which make it difficult to access by
car. On the slopes of the neighbouring hills grow olive and almond trees, as
well as holm oaks and carob sometimes out of strangely formed rocks. The old
tracks which meander through the landscape to the town are still visible and can
be recognised by the signage identifying them as walking routes. We have walking
map routes which you can take with you some of the walks are quite long so you
do need to be fit and we do recommend that you bring good footwear with you if
planning to go on any of the walking routes around here!(more
information on these walking routes can be found in our welcome folder at Villa
Amarilla).
The Village
The beautiful white village of
Comares
is
only
a few minutes drive away from
Villa Amarilla where you will be staying,
set on a mountaintop approximately 720m above sea level with breathtaking panoramic views over the mountains to the sea at Torre del
mar.
The
labyrinth of narrow streets and the flower bedecked houses and patios
invite you to tour the village. Comares is typically Spanish and the
locals are very friendly they always say hello (HOLA!) even if they
don’t know you any foreigner that does visit is warmly welcomed. There
are two banks in the main Plaza square a restaurant, tobacconist, and
pharmacy not forgetting the bars and an English bar all offering food or
tapas you must try the house wine (vino de la casa) it’s very sweet and
Morish a bit like a sweet port.
There
are a few local shops where you can buy your groceries e.g. bread, meat
& dairy produce, locally grown fruit & veg, tin foods, drinks, and body
products etc. You can take a walk a round this pretty village and learn
a little about its History
Or just
take in the views and shoot a few pictures.
In the main plaza square of the village you will find El
Molino de
los Abuelos
a hotel and restaurant which has been created around the beautifully
restored olive mill. Many old details were retained and the mill room is
now home to the restaurant.
Less than a few minuets away coming out of Comares is the
Mirador de la Axarquia
Known locally as the Camping bar the food menu is good they and serve
drinks you may sit out side on the balcony and enjoy the views, another
restaurant is the
Hotel Restaurant Antalaya,
they also serve a good meal and the service is good the Spanish eat
later but if you visit earlier evening in the they will usually open the
restaurant for you.
The Main Square
GASTRONOMY
While you are here try some of the delicious local dishes. Soups are
the speciality, such as gazpachuelo, and in winter, potato broth and
tomato soup. Because of its proximity to the Axarqía, the cuisine of the
town is not very different from that of the Axarquía region. The local
cuisine is heavier in winter, with potato stews, tomato soup and the
local ajoblanco soup. Comares is famous for it’s sweet muscatel wine. It
is in this village, too, that many of the costumes worn by flamenco
Verdiales groups are created, especially the spectacular headgear, with
ribbons and mirrors. Sandals and baskets made of esparto grass are also
woven here.
Comares restaurant: Hotel Atalayer
FIESTAS
The days when Comares forgets that it is a sleepy village and comes to
life are August 25th, 26th and 27th, the time of the fair in honour of
St Hilaire de Poitiers. January 14th is when the image of the patron
saint is carried in procession with verdiales music afterwards.
Special mention should be made of the difference between the verdiales music
here and in other places like the Agujero area, Matagatos, los Pintaos
and Barranco del Sol, the music in Comares being faster in rhythm, with
a livelier melody and the use of the lute, introduced as a novelty some
years ago.